When Rick Bayless’ Frontera Grill opened almost 30 years ago, according to the celebrity chef, Chicago was a "wasteland for local agriculture."
Before the proliferation of farmer’s markets and surge of farm-to-table marketing, Bayless pleaded with farmers in Illinois and Wisconsin to just to sell him some tomatoes, he recalled Wednesday.
He even lent farmers money to grow food for him, a prelude to what would become the Frontera Farm Foundation.
"I knew if we could get chefs to taste stuff that was seasonal and fresh and do a little work with farmers … it would really change the restaurant culture in Chicago," Bayless said.
His mission continues this spring with a new partnership with FamilyFarmed, a Chicago nonprofit that trains farmers and mentors local food entrepreneurs. By joining forces, Bayless’ foundation and FamilyFarmed hope to raise enough money to bolster the "good food movement" in Chicago in a meaningful way, perhaps commencing a long-term arrangement that could eventually grow to a national effort.
Rick Bayless closes Xoco Bistro, opens Fonda Frontera Nick Kindelsperger
When Rick Bayless opened Xoco Bistro in Wicker Park in 2014, it sounded like a surefire hit. After all, the original location of Xoco in River North has been going strong since 2009, still regularly bringing in throngs for its wood-fired tortas and rich hot chocolate. But after a little more than two…
When Rick Bayless opened Xoco Bistro in Wicker Park in 2014, it sounded like a surefire hit. After all, the original location of Xoco in River North has been going strong since 2009, still regularly bringing in throngs for its wood-fired tortas and rich hot chocolate. But after a little more than two…
(Nick Kindelsperger)
Neither side is rushing into marriage just yet, choosing instead to see how the first date goes. The collaboration kicks off April 30 with a fundraiser celebrating Frontera Grill’s 30th anniversary; the event will be held at the Art Institute, during the week of the James Beard Awards. The Frontera Farmer Foundation and FamilyFarmed will split the proceeds 50-50.
"This is our little ‘let’s test the waters’ event," Bayless said.
The partnership could provide a boost for FamilyFarmed, which runs a six-month food business accelerator program that connects food startups to mentors and resources to grow their businesses. Many of the participants now sell their wares in Whole Foods Market stores in Chicago.
Since 2004, the nonprofit has also staged the Good Food Festival, a three-day trade show showcasing food that’s somewhere in the ballpark of local, healthy and sustainably produced. And FamilyFarmed, which has received more than $1.8 million in grants from the U.S. Department of Agriculture since 2010, also provides training and technical assistance to farmers throughout the U.S.
Chicago awarded $1M USDA urban farming grant Greg Trotter
Chicago will receive a $1 million federal grant to boost and coordinate urban farming in the city, particularly on land near the long-awaited Englewood Line rail trail, city and federal officials announced Thursday.
Chicago’s new “Growing for Chicago” initiative is one of 45 projects to be awarded…
Chicago will receive a $1 million federal grant to boost and coordinate urban farming in the city, particularly on land near the long-awaited Englewood Line rail trail, city and federal officials announced Thursday.
Chicago’s new “Growing for Chicago” initiative is one of 45 projects to be awarded…
(Greg Trotter)
Jim Slama, FamilyFarmed founder and president, hopes the partnership with Bayless will mean more money to add staff and expand services. A new FamilyFarmed program called Incubator Without Walls would provide guidance — in areas such as marketing, financing, food safety and distribution — tailored to the specific needs of a given company, Slama said.
And Slama hopes to launch a regional grain network, connecting grain farmers to distributors, retailers and restaurants. But those dreams take money, which is where Bayless comes in.
"With Rick’s success and brand, we think we can leverage this partnership to attract additional funders both regionally and nationally," Slama said.
Rick Bayless Terrence Antonio James / Chicago Tribune Chef Rick Bayless talks Feb. 1, 2017, about his Frontera Family Foundation partnering with FamilyFarmed to encourage local agricultural efforts. Bayless, photographed in his offices above the Frontera Grill restaurant he founded in 1987, now oversees 14 restaurants. Chef Rick Bayless talks Feb. 1, 2017, about his Frontera Family Foundation partnering with FamilyFarmed to encourage local agricultural efforts. Bayless, photographed in his offices above the Frontera Grill restaurant he founded in 1987, now oversees 14 restaurants. (Terrence Antonio James / Chicago Tribune)
Though similar in mission, the two nonprofits have different funding streams. FamilyFarmed brought in about $1.2 million in revenue in 2015, according to financial filings, the vast majority of it coming from governmental and corporate grants, and from foundations. Only about $19,000 came from individuals.
In contrast, the Frontera Farmer Foundation raises the vast majority of its money on one night every year at its "Dinner Like No Other" fundraiser at Frontera and Topolobampo. In 2015, the bulk of its $182,310 in revenue came from that event, according to financial statements.
A small nonprofit with no paid staff, the foundation awards about 15 grants to farmers per year, maxing out at $12,000 a piece. The hope is to award more grants of higher value if the partnership with FamilyFarmed pans out, said Frontera spokesman Casey Cora.
Howard Tullman, CEO of tech hub 1871, has known both Slama and Bayless for years. FamilyFarmed’s Good Food Business Accelerator is also housed at 1871 in the Merchandise Mart.
Tullman said he saw promise in the new partnership, particularly the idea of the Incubator Without Walls, which could help businesses in areas with little access to healthy food on Chicago’s South and West sides. But the model needs to be proven locally before expanding nationally, Tullman said.
"I always say you need to nail it before you scale it. … Our suggestion is to do it so well people are begging you to expand," Tullman said.
Times have changed since Frontera Grill opened March 21, 1987. Bayless now oversees 14 restaurants, in addition to his media appearances, cooking classes and travels. But as Frontera turns 30, Bayless said he saw an opportunity to deepen his commitment to locally produced food.
"I like to see a thriving agricultural economy in the place that I’m doing my work, which is my chef work. Every place I’ve been in the world, where there’s really good agriculture, there’s good food on the table. Where there’s not good agriculture, there’s mediocre food on the table," Bayless said.
gtrotter@chicagotribune.com
Twitter @GregTrotterTrib
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