Back in 1993, Antonio Cagnolo opened Cucina di Mamma Pina at his restaurant, Antonello’s, in Santa Ana’s South Coast Village. It’s an intimate private dining room adjacent to the kitchen that honors Cagnolo’s mother. A small group gathered to revel in everything from antipasti to fresh pasta and classic desserts.
But what I remember most was the robust anchovy spread, an additive concoction served over mascarpone cheese slathered atop toasted artisanal bread. Armed with a fork, a plate and a small platter of ingredients, Cagnolo showed me how to make it at the table.
Mash, stir, taste. He used a fork. I use a food processor. Serve it atop cheese-topped toast or crackers, or toss it with hot pasta or green beans to taste.
Antonio Cagnolo’s Anchovy Appetizer
Yield: about 10 servings
1 (2-ounce) can anchovy fillets
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
1 medium garlic clove, finely minced
1/2 teaspoon dried red chili flakes
1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Pinch dried oregano or 1 teaspoon minced fresh oregano
3-4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Italian or French bread, sliced and toasted, cut into 2- to 3-inch pieces, if large
6 ounces mascarpone cheese or goat cheese, see cook’s notes
Optional: cherry tomatoes, halved
Cook’s notes: I prefer the supercreamy La Bonne Vie goat cheese (5.29 ounces) that is packaged in a tower shape. I run a thin-bladed knife around the container’s edge and invert it onto the plate. I buy it at Albertsons.
Procedure:
1. Drain anchovies, pat dry and place on plate; sprinkle with balsamic vinegar and allow to rest 4-5 hours.
2. Combine anchovies, parsley, garlic and chili flakes in food processor. Process until very finely chopped sahabet and well combined. Add lemon juice, oregano and olive oil; process until blended. Place cheese in center of serving plate. Surround with spoonfuls of spread. Garnish with tomatoes if desired. Provide toast and a knife for spreading.
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