If you think all Argentinean Malbecs are big, bold fruit-bombs with about as much restraint as Donald Trump on Twitter, think again. That hot South American country is totally stepping up its game with exhilarating bottles that teem with elegance, finesse and complexity. Taste these five outstanding value 90+ers to see what I mean.
2015 Trivento Special Selection Fair Trade Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina (LCBO 160994 $12.20 in stores and online)
This killer red is not only dirt cheap, it trumped many more expensive Malbecs tasted for this piece. It glides across the palate luminously, with vibrant berry fruit edged with shy dried herbs — wild sage, bay leaf and lavender. Then, the flavours taper to a smooth, refined finish. Love the balance of succulence and delicacy here. Very stylish drop. What’s more, it’s certified fair trade, which ensures dignified wages and fair working conditions for the men and women behind this wine.
Score: 92
2016 Trapiche Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina (LCBO 501551 $10.45 in stores and online)
What this gorgeous red lacks in complexity, it more than makes up for with delicious purity of fruit. It tastes exactly like Grandma’s best ever raspberry jam from berries she picked by hand and bottled lovingly. The jam you pull out mid-winter and presto it’s summer again. It’s like that — but dry and light-tasting with a moderate 12.5 per cent alcohol. Fresh and wild tasting with impeccable balance. In short, this 10-buck red is seriously fun to drink.
Score: 91+
2012 Finca La Escuela El Limo Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina (Vintages 479600 $22.95 in stores only)
Hitting shelves Feb. 4, this stunner is well worth snapping up. It’s an alluring Malbec with all the full-fruited depth and power of old school Malbec as well as the delicacy, finesse and characterful complexity of a more modern expression. The sweet perfume of menthol and sweet tobacco, wild cherry and cassis leads to fleshy-but-electric attack of red and black fruit. Then, that ripe core quickly unspools with dried herbs, cigar box, violet and a whisper of eucalyptus before leaving a compellingly chalky texture on the finish.
Score: 92+
2015 La Posta Pizzella Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina (Vintages 166298 $15.95 in stores)
Though this bottle was released in Vintages in August, there’s lots left on shelves. It’s well worth recommending because it’s drinking beautifully right now. The gorgeous floral-berry nose leads to expansive, high-toned flavours of raspberry and red plum that give way to hints of creamy dark chocolate, coffee, spice cake, cardamom and citrus peel. It’s juicy and opulent with great freshness, lift and charm. And the finish is smooth, polished and long. Snazzy label too. Can’t go wrong with a bottle of this juice on hand.
Score: 91
2015 Alamos Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina (LCBO 295139, $15.45 in stores and online)
This label’s depiction of mountains pays homage to the fact growing grapes at higher altitudes can preserve freshness and elegance in a wine — without compromising flavour. Made from grapes grown 900 to 1500 metres above sea level, this rich-but-refreshing Malbec is chock-full of blueberry and blackberry liqueur flavours edged with graphite, all of which is lifted with spiralling bright cherry-almond delicacy. Excellent wine for the money.
Score: 90+
Carolyn Evans Hammond is a Toronto-based wine writer. She is also a London-trained sommelier and two-time bestselling wine book author. Reach her at carolyn@carolynevanshammond.com .
Carolyn Evans Hammond is a Toronto-based wine writer. She is also a London-trained sommelier and two-time bestselling wine book author. Reach her at carolyn@carolynevanshammond.com .
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