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Updated 34 minutes ago
On Valentine's Day, a glass or two of delicious Burgundy wine can help Cupid's arrows hit the bullseye of true love. Intriguing aromas and delicate, pure flavors deliver ample pleasure to set just the right mood. And you won't have to break the bank with a little targeted buying.
In good vintages, selections from Burgundy's leading negociants provide terrific value on readily drinkable wines. Negociants are merchants who produce wines made both from grapes grown in their own vineyards and from fruit, juice and young, unfinished wines purchased from third party growers
In any case, good negociant wines have a reliable “house” style. The best deliver irresistible transparent fruit, freshness and elegance. Consider Maison Antonin Rodet.
The firm began in 1875 when a grocer in the town of Chalon-sur-Soane started a wine brokerage business. The founder's son, Antonine Rodet, focused on wines from the Cote Chalonnaise which encompasses lesser known villages such as Mercurey, Givry and Rully.
The family had an abiding belief in the region's terroir, which had produced quality wines for centuries. Strategic vineyard purchases both at home and further north in the Cote d'Or bore fruit as Rodet developed a reputation for reliable and well made, if not particularly exciting wines. In 2009, the Boisset family, another négociant firm in Nuits-Saint-Georges, purchased Rodet.
With leadership from Jean-Charles Boisset, the irrepressible Franco-American wine grower, entrepreneur and showman married to Gina Gallo, quality has steadily improved. Limiting crop yields and chemical applications in the vineyards have been crucial. Rodet's winemaker, Anne-Laure Hernette, and vineyard manager, Georges Piazzon, favor “pure, authentic wines” with subtle oak barrel aging.
For a tasty white, the 2014 Maison Antonin Rodet, Chateau de Mercey, Hautes Côte de Beaune — Chardonnay, France (Luxury 78304; Chairman's Selection on sale: $14.99 — available in Allegheny, Butler and Westmoreland counties) offers pleasant pear and citrus aromas with subtle smokiness. Crisp apple and citrus flavors follow. A touch of earthiness and fresh acidity frame the dry, pleasing finish. Highly recommended.
For an equally tasty red, the 2014 Maison Antonin Rodet, Chateau de Mercey, Hautes Cote de Beaune — Pinot Noir, France (Luxury 78305; Chairman's Selection on sale: $14.99 — available in Allegheny, Butler and Westmoreland counties) opens with dark red fruit aromas and smoky notes. Ripe dark fruit and lovely fresh acidity balance with elegant tannins. Highly recommended.
Maison Louis Jadot, another venerable negociant firm, has headquarters in historic Beaune, the nerve center of Burgundy's wine trade. Louis Henry Denis Jadot founded the firm in 1859. Then as now, the highly regarded Beaune “Clos des Ursles” 1er cru vineyard serves as a centerpiece holding.
In the mid-20th century, the family and its charismatic director, André Gagey, added prestigious grand cru vineyard holdings such as Chevalier Montrachet “Les Demoiselles.” Meanwhile, they also bought fruit and wines to make reliable regional Bourgogne wines and Beaujolais wines.
In 1985, the Jadot family sold a controlling interest to its American importers, the Kopf family. Since 1992, Pierre-Henri Gagey has directed the firm. He remains committed to making terroir focused wines with authentic personalities and great purity, elegance and delicacy.
The 2014 Louis Jadot, Bourgogne Chardonnay,” France (6406; $17.99 — widely available in Allegheny, Butler and Westmoreland counties) offers a delicious white with citrus and fresh apple aromas. Bright, refreshing fruit and a touch of creaminess balance with the elegant, dry finish. Recommended.
The 2014 Louis Jadot, Bourgogne “Le Chapitre,” France (Luxury 99361; $32.99 —limited distribution) delivers a tasty, well-made red from a specific lieu-dit vineyard in Chenôve, near Dijon. The Dukes of Burgundy purportedly held the site in high regard as the source of their daily “house wine.”
Jadot's rendition offers bright red fruit and spicy oak hints. Medium body and delicious, fresh red fruit balance with smooth tannins. A few hours of decanting will open the wine nicely. The 2014 vintage shines even with growing ballyhoo over 2015. Recommended.
The 2014 Louis Jadot, Monthélie “Sous Roches,” France (Luxury 99352; $37.99 — limited distribution) comes from a rugged vineyard with clay and stony soils and good sun exposure. The wine's brilliant ruby red color offers enticing red cherry aromas. Ripe red fruit flavors and bright acidity layer with smooth tannins and a delicate, harmonious finish. Highly Recommended.
Dave DeSimone writes about wine for the Tribune-Review. Reach him at tribliving@tribweb.com.
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