Scharffenberger Anderson Valley NV Brut Rosé ($23) is a beautiful sparkler, with a rich, round mouth feel and a generous mousse.
Aromas are pretty and engaging, with a headiness that makes you smile. First there’s a hint of a spring orchard, followed by a strawberry patch warmed by the sun, and a whisper of freshly baked bread.
Following the aromas are flavors of raspberry, baked custard apple, cream, and more hints of freshly baked bread, this time slathered with good butter.
The wine has just the slightest suggestion of sweetness, which means, in part, that it will stand up to foods with a bit of heat, but not too much.
It can also take a bit of tartness, making it a good sparkler to serve with salad, either before or after the main meal.
To pair it with oysters on the half shell, use a low-acid vinegar and ruby grapefruit to make a mild mignonette. To enjoy it with meat, you won’t find a better match than a rare steak topped with a bit of butter and a generous squeeze of lemon juice.
You can enjoy the wine all the way through dessert, if you like; consider chocolate mousse, a perfect companion. (You’ll find my recipe for chocolate mousse at “Eat This Now” at pantry.blogs.pressdemocrat.com.)
For today’s recipe, inspiration comes from two sources, caviar, a natural companion to sparkling wine; and a shape of pasta that resembles cauliflower florets.
Just as the uniformity of bubbles pleases us physically by stimulating our trigeminal nerves (provide sensation to the face), so, too, is our palate pleased by the uniform shape of both the cauliflower and pasta in this simple but delightful dish, perfect when you are enjoying an evening with your sweetie.
Black and White Pasta
Serves 2
— Kosher salt
1 cup small cauliflower florets
4 ounces small-shaped pasta, such as chiocciole, creste di galli, or cornetti
1 tablespoon butter
3 tablespoon creme fraiche
— Grated zest of 1 small lemon
1 tablespoon minced fresh chives
1-2 ounces caviar (see Note below)
Fill a medium saucepan half full with water, season generously with salt and bring to a boil over high heat. When the water boils, add the cauliflower and cook until it is tender but not at all mushy, about 5 minutes. Working quickly, use a small strainer or a slotted spoon to remove the cauliflower from the water; set it aside.
Add the pasta to water and cook according to package directions until just done. Add the cauliflower, count to ten slowly, and drain in a colander or strainer.
Transfer to a medium bowl, add the butter and creme fraiche and toss very gently until the butter and creme fraiche coat the pasta and cauliflower evenly.
Season with salt, black pepper, lemon zest, and chives and toss again.
Divide among 2 small pasta plates, scatter caviar on top and enjoy right away.
Note: Use the best caviar you can afford. Domestic caviars are quite good.
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