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This 1887 photo was taken along Port Townsend’s main drag downtown, Water Street. The photo is looking east from Taylor Street. The building on the left with the visible “1884 McCurdy” still stands, though it would be hard to recognize if not for the sign. Just out of frame to the right is the Hastings Building, perhaps one of the most recognizable buildings in downtown. Photo courtesy Washington State Archives.
This 1887 photo was taken along Port Townsend’s main drag downtown, Water Street. The photo is looking east from Taylor Street. The building on the left with the visible “1884 McCurdy” still stands, though it
Port Townsend’s waterfront seems sleepy and peaceful today, but was once a bustling seaport busy throughout the days with sailors coming and going and downtown businessess turning a brisk business. Things turned down sharply in 1893 when the country fell into a recession, but picked up enough after to keep the town alive. Most of the development in the city took place before that recession, and the town is famous today for its Victorian architecture. Photo: Daniel DeMay/Seattlepi.com
Port Townsend’s waterfront seems sleepy and peaceful today, but was once a bustling seaport busy throughout the days with sailors coming and going and downtown businessess turning a brisk business. Things
A crowd gathers Oct. 11, 1925 on Water Street at Taylor Street in downtown Port Townsend for the driving of the last spike in the Milwaukee Road extension to Port Townsend’s Union Wharf. The extension was celebrated but was to be surpassed by the automobile in just a few years. By the 1930s, the line would be used primarily for freight and timber. Photo courtesy UW Special Collections.
A crowd gathers Oct. 11, 1925 on Water Street at Taylor Street in downtown Port Townsend for the driving of the last spike in the Milwaukee Road extension to Port Townsend’s Union Wharf. The extension was
People stand along the deck railings of the S.S. Australia near Port Townsed circa 1898. This steamship was among many ships that called at Port Townsend in those days, as the city was the port of entry at Puget Sound for most of its 19th century existence and beyond. During the city’s seaport heyday, many fell victim to being “shanghaied” after a night out at the brothels and saloons of Port Townsend’s waterfront, being forced into service aboard working ships sailing from the port. Photo courtesy UW Special Collections.
People stand along the deck railings of the S.S. Australia near Port Townsed circa 1898. This steamship was among many ships that called at Port Townsend in those days, as the city was the port of entry at
This view, looking east across Port Townsend Bay, shows the waterfront and bay as it looked in 1898 or ’99. The photo was taken from the Customs House atop the bluffs above downtown, a building that still serves as the post office today. Photo courtesy UW Special Collections.
This view, looking east across Port Townsend Bay, shows the waterfront and bay as it looked in 1898 or ’99. The photo was taken from the Customs House atop the bluffs above downtown, a building that still
Joe Kuhn, with the long beard, stands at the bar of Carr’s saloon in about 1890. Joseph Kuhn was the third mayor of Port Townsend, from 1883 to 1885, and then again from 1890 to 1892, according to a Port Townsend Leader history. Photo courtesy UW Special Collections.
Joe Kuhn, with the long beard, stands at the bar of Carr’s saloon in about 1890. Joseph Kuhn was the third mayor of Port Townsend, from 1883 to 1885, and then again from 1890 to 1892, according to a Port
A “disappearing gun” fires a shot at Fort Worden, Port Townsend, circa 1915. Fort Worden was one of three forts around the entrance to Puget Sound — Admiralty Inlet — called by some the “Triangle of Fire” and designed to protect the sound from any possible invasion by sea. Fort Casey on Whidbey Island and Fort Flagler on Marrowstone Island completed the triangle. The “disappearing guns” were a novel technology at the time, so name because they could be lowered below the fortification wall during reloading, thus protecting gun and crew from enemy bombardment. Photo courtesy UW Special Collections.
A “disappearing gun” fires a shot at Fort Worden, Port Townsend, circa 1915. Fort Worden was one of three forts around the entrance to Puget Sound — Admiralty Inlet — called by some the “Triangle of Fire” and
Shown here on July 4, 1892, Port Townsend’s fire brigade is gathered outside the then year-old City Hall, at Madison and Water streets. Like much of downtown Port Townsend, the building still stands today and is home to the Jefferson County Historical Society, with city offices in an adjoining building built in 2005. Photo courtesy UW Special Collections.
Shown here on July 4, 1892, Port Townsend’s fire brigade is gathered outside the then year-old City Hall, at Madison and Water streets. Like much of downtown Port Townsend, the building still stands today and
This is the first cabin to built by white settlers in Port Townsend, erected in 1851. The two-room cabin was built by Charles Bachelder, Loren B. Hastings, Francis W. Pettygrove and Alfred A. Plummer. The site is at the would later become the corner of Tyler and Water streets, and Hasting’s widow, Lucinda, would partner with another local businessman to build the James and Hastings building there in 1889. That building still stands today, as does the Hastings Building, less than a block away, built the same year and entirely funded by Lucinda Hastings. Photo courtesy UW Special Collections.
This is the first cabin to built by white settlers in Port Townsend, erected in 1851. The two-room cabin was built by Charles Bachelder, Loren B. Hastings, Francis W. Pettygrove and Alfred A. Plummer. The site
This is the bandstand in Chetzemoka Park, not far from Fort Worden in Port Townsend. The park takes its name, like so many things in the region, from a Native American. A S’Klallam chief’s son, Cheech-Ma-Ham, was given the new name Chetzemoka by the first white settlers in the area, around 1848, because they found his name too hard to prounounce. They also called him Duke of York. In 1854, he was recognized as chief of the tribe, and was later credited with saving the whites from certain annihilation during the Indian Wars. Photo courtesy Washington State Archives.
This is the bandstand in Chetzemoka Park, not far from Fort Worden in Port Townsend. The park takes its name, like so many things in the region, from a Native American. A S’Klallam chief’s son, Cheech-Ma-Ham,
The Custom House, shown here in 1907, was Port Townsend’s claim to big-city status. With the city situated at the entrance to Puget Sound, it was a sensible place for all sea traffic to go through customs. But the failure of the railroad to connect all the way to Port Townsend would eventually doom its major seaport status. The Custom House, built atop the bluff from downtown along Washington Street, still stands today, though it now serves as the Post Office. Photo courtesy UW Special Collections.
The Custom House, shown here in 1907, was Port Townsend’s claim to big-city status. With the city situated at the entrance to Puget Sound, it was a sensible place for all sea traffic to go through customs. But
This photo, probably dating to the 1910s sometime, shows the Central Hotel in downtown Port Townsend in its second incarnation, likely rebuilt after a fire. The hotel is at the corner of Water and Taylor streets. The Mount Baker Building, still standing today, is partially visible on the right. Photo courtesy Washington State Library.
This photo, probably dating to the 1910s sometime, shows the Central Hotel in downtown Port Townsend in its second incarnation, likely rebuilt after a fire. The hotel is at the corner of Water and Taylor
Looking over the downtown area from the bluff, likely near the Customs House (now the post office), this 1890 photo shows the construction site of the Mount Baker Building along Water Street. Port Townsend’s downtown had a reputation for being a tough place at the height of the city’s shipping days. Brothels and saloons were filled with sailors on shore leave, often looking for a fight. The city was also well-known for the uninitiated being “shanghaied,” or drugged and taken aboard ships to serve as unwilling sailors. Photo courtesy UW Special Collections.
Looking over the downtown area from the bluff, likely near the Customs House (now the post office), this 1890 photo shows the construction site of the Mount Baker Building along Water Street. Port Townsend’s
“Gen. Pershing at Fort Worden on lower photo. ‘From Joseph M. Bailey Coll. Rt. 2, Port Townsend. Gen. J. J. Pershing at Fort Worden Jan. 20, 1920, accompanied by Col. John L. Hayden CAC.'” General John J. Pershing was most famous as the commander of the American Expeditionary Force on the Western Front during World War I. Photo courtesy Washington State Archives.
“Gen. Pershing at Fort Worden on lower photo. ‘From Joseph M. Bailey Coll. Rt. 2, Port Townsend. Gen. J. J. Pershing at Fort Worden Jan. 20, 1920, accompanied by Col. John L. Hayden CAC.'” General John J.
The Central Hotel shown here in 1895 was an early downtown structure in Port Townsend. The hotel, at the corner of Taylor and Water streets, was later rebuilt, possibly after a fire. A later photo shows a very different looking building at the same location with the same name (see next slide). Photo courtesy UW Special Collections.
The Central Hotel shown here in 1895 was an early downtown structure in Port Townsend. The hotel, at the corner of Taylor and Water streets, was later rebuilt, possibly after a fire. A later photo shows a very
This photo shows the Port Townsend waterfront in 1922, looking northeast along the line of what is today Sims Way.The inland water on the left is the Kah Tai Lagoon, substantially drained from what is shown in this photo, but still there. Photo courtesy Washington State Archives.
This photo shows the Port Townsend waterfront in 1922, looking northeast along the line of what is today Sims Way.The inland water on the left is the Kah Tai Lagoon, substantially drained from what is shown in
The Hastings Building was built in 1889 by Lucinda Hastings, the widow of early Port Townsend settler Loren B. Hastings. The upper floors of the building were vacant for decades and remain so to the best of my knowledge. Photo: Daniel DeMay/Seattlepi.com
The Hastings Building was built in 1889 by Lucinda Hastings, the widow of early Port Townsend settler Loren B. Hastings. The upper floors of the building were vacant for decades and remain so to the best of my
In this 1914 photo, a number of cars stand gathered outside the Delmonico Hotel in downtown Port Townsend. The hotel was housed in the McCurdy Building, built in 1884 and still standing today. Photo courtesy UW Special Collections.
In this 1914 photo, a number of cars stand gathered outside the Delmonico Hotel in downtown Port Townsend. The hotel was housed in the McCurdy Building, built in 1884 and still standing today. Photo courtesy UW
The home of A.W. Bash in Port Townsend, circa 1890. Photo courtesy UW Special Collections.
The home of A.W. Bash in Port Townsend, circa 1890. Photo courtesy UW Special Collections.
Manresa Castle stands prominently looking over Port Townsend. The building, now a hotel, was originally built as the home of Charles and Kate Eisenbeis in 1892. Charles Eisenbeis was the first mayor of the city, and a prominent businessman. Stories of hauntings at Manresa Castle — initally called Eisenbeis Castle for its castle-like appearance and later formally called Manresa Hall by the Jesuits who occupied it until 1968 — have flourished for years and even made it into ghost-hunting books and television shows. My own father swore he encountered a spirit in the building once, but others say it is completely made up to sell rooms. Photo: Jeremy Clemens/Special to Seattlepi.com.
Manresa Castle stands prominently looking over Port Townsend. The building, now a hotel, was originally built as the home of Charles and Kate Eisenbeis in 1892. Charles Eisenbeis was the first mayor of the
Seen here in 1865, Port Townsend’s waterfront shows little of the brick and Victorian stylings that it would come to be known for. Still, just five years after it was incorporated, the city shows signs of growth and hustle and bustle, something it would mostly keep up through the 19th century. Photo courtesy UW Special Collections.
Seen here in 1865, Port Townsend’s waterfront shows little of the brick and Victorian stylings that it would come to be known for. Still, just five years after it was incorporated, the city shows signs of
This is one of the earliest known photographs of Port Townsend, dated about 1862. The hotels and businesses are likely along Water Street, what would become the downtown’s main street. Photo courtesy UW Special Collections.
This is one of the earliest known photographs of Port Townsend, dated about 1862. The hotels and businesses are likely along Water Street, what would become the downtown’s main street. Photo courtesy UW Special
Shown here in 1885, the Waterman and Katz mercantile store was first opened in 1862 along Water Street in downtown Port Townsend. The duo also opened a store uptown around the same time. Their large brick building on Water Street still stands today, with a gallery on the ground floor and condos above. Photo courtesy UW Special Collections.
Shown here in 1885, the Waterman and Katz mercantile store was first opened in 1862 along Water Street in downtown Port Townsend. The duo also opened a store uptown around the same time. Their large brick
The man set his keys down on the coffee table and set about tidying the room.
It was a small room on the third floor of Manresa Castle, a hotel in the Victorian seaport of Port Townsend, and the man — in his late 20s — was a housekeeper there just wrapping up his day.
He finished up his work and turned back to retrieve the large key ring.
It wasn’t there, at least not on the table. Instead, it was floating in mid-air about 18 inches off the wood top. As he stared at it, the ring crashed down on the table in a flurry of clatter.
The man snatched up the keys and bolted out of room 306, terrified by the experience.
That’s the story, anyway, that I was told as a kid. The man was my dad, working there sometime in the late 1970s. The room is now famous among the ghost-hunting circuit as the room where a young woman, depressed after her lover never returned from sea, decided to leap out the window to her death.
She’s one of two ghosts said to haunt the hotel, the other being a Jesuit monk who hung himself in the attic above room 302. Some count the hotel among the most haunted places in Washington state.
I grew up in and around Port Townsend, and heard all the stories — some with grains of truth and some with none at all.
But it’s no surprise the city has drawn such terrific tales of horror; as many such places were in the late 19th century, the city started on tenuous terms and, in its heyday, drew no shortage of tough characters.
The city’s first white settlers built a cabin near the beach in 1851, smack in the middle of what was then a prominent S’Klallam Indian trading village. And it wasn’t long before a city and a bustling seaport solidified the white settlers’ position in the area (a questionable treaty gave the government the land in exchange for the natives’ right to keep fishing and hunting on it).
With a good harbor, the city was able to secure status as the port of entry for Puget Sound and its waterfront became the domain of all things working class: Mercantiles, brothels, saloons and bad behavior.
While the upper classes lived in relative peace and luxury uptown — not far but literally above the downtown — the downtown became a place not to be caught unawares at night.
Aside from the more reasonable threats of robbery and fights that could turn murderous, Port Townsend became known as a place where men regularly got “shanghaied.” In short, a man out on the town might be drugged or knocked over the head after a night of drinking and find himself aboard a ship in the morning, forced into service by a master short of crew.
City leaders, banking that the railroad would terminate at the seaport, spurred a development boom that raised most of the buildings that today make up the downtown and uptown cores, as well as many of the homes.
Unfortunately for them, the railroad didn’t make it (rail lines ended on the east side of Puget Sound) and then a nationwide depression hit in 1893, triggering significant fallout in the region. As the city’s glory waned, things got tough for some.
Charles Eisenbeis Jr., son of the city’s first mayor (Eisenbeis Sr. was a prominent businessman who had Manresa Castle built as a private home for he and his wife in 1892), shot himself in the head in 1897. He was, as the article in The Morning Leader described it at the time, “despondent.”
The incident at Manresa Castle was not the only tale of haunting I heard as a child.
After the turn of the century, Port Townsend regained some momentum with the opening of Fort Worden as a military outpost.
It opened in 1902 and was active until 1953. In 1957 it became a juvenile detention center (reform school was the way I heard it growing up) and then became a state park in 1973.
But as a teenager, I heard dark tales of the undead roaming the underground walkways of the fort, usually from other teenagers when we were about the walk into those underground halls.
It was rumored that a Satan-worshiping group practiced rituals in some of the darkest reaches of the mostly underground buildings of the outpost, sometimes releasing demons into the area that would prey on anyone who passed near.
There is a military cemetery on the grounds, but as far as I know, all who rest there died of mundane natural causes.
For many years now, the city has largely kept itself alive on the backs of tourists and a paper mill. No doubt, a healthy volume of ghost stories boosts some of the tourist trade.
James Barnett, writing for the Port Townsend Leader in 2004, put the Manresa castle haunting at less than 10 years old (for the record, I heard tales of it before 1994) and cast it as only a method to boost low booking numbers.
Supposedly, the stories were invented by a bartender who even made up the ghosts’ back stories, according to Barnett.
The Palace Hotel downtown is another site of supernatural visitations, or so it is said to be.
The hotel was at one time a brothel, run by a Madame Claire. Her corner room, number 4, is often reported by guests as the site of moving objects, shifting shadows and unexplained sounds, Barnett noted in his 2004 piece.
I’ve stayed in the Palace in recent years and didn’t run across any ghostly madams roaming the halls, but, then again, it is a spooky place.
For me, the stories are a fun way to connect with the city’s decadent past. Maybe the places really are haunted by tricky or evil spirits.
Or maybe those spirits are just the creation of smart-minded entrepreneurs trying to make a buck.
Daniel DeMay covers Seattle culture, business and transportation for seattlepi.com. He can be reached at 206-448-8362 or danieldemay@seattlepi.com. Follow him on Twitter: @Daniel_DeMay.
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