Here’s a note from Jamie Simpson, executive chef at Culinary Vegetable Institute in Milan, on the signature soup dish he’ll serve at a contemporary interpretation of a White House dinner from the 1880s. Each component could be made by switching to prepared stock or broth, but he takes us through the whole thing from beginning to end, giving us a chance to create a more authentic, and likely more nutritious, bowl of classy soup.
— Debbi Snook
“Cooking 100 years ago was nothing short of resourceful. Nature determined what was available and when.
“Here we’re taking very young whole carrots and turnips that could be ready to transplant in the fields by spring, last season’s carrots, onions and garlic for the broth, next season’s onions for the garnish, young celery and finally black truffles.
“Starting a meal off with a hot soup like this was common practice in the late 1800s as the French formats of dining and cooking took grasp of the culinary world.”
Consomme d’Hiver a la Royale (Royal Winter Soup)
Makes 4-8 servings
1 quart rich, clarified meat stock (see related recipes)
1/2 pound baby vegetables and greens
1/2 pound beef short ribs, braised
Black truffle shavings (optional)
Cook’s notes: It’s easy to cook the short ribs if you’re making the stock at the same time. Pat meat dry with paper towels. Season meat with salt and pepper. Brown the outside of the meat in a frying pan with some oil, and, when the contents of your stockpot begins to simmer, drop the beef into it. Follow the rest of the stock recipe, leaving the beef in for 4-6 hours, until cooked and tender. Remove meat and chill until ready to assemble the soup. Continue cooking your stock as described in related recipe.
Prepare soup: Heat finished stock, whether clarified or not, until boiling. Cook for two minutes, then keep warm.
Prepared vegetables: Boil well-salted water and drop in baby vegetables or thin vegetable cuts to blanch, about one minute. Drain and plunge into cold water to cool.
Prepare meat: Trim fat away from beef and cut into bite-sized pieces. Set aside.
Assemble soup: Pour a cup or two of stock into well-warmed bowls. Add vegetables, meat and, if using, the truffle shavings. Serve immediately.
Source: Adapted from the “White House Cookbook of 1887” and the Hayes Presidential Library in Fremont, Ohio.
Culinary Vegetable Institute Meat Stock for Soups and Sauces
Makes 5 quarts
4 pounds chicken carcasses
1 large onion, quartered, root removed
4 carrots peeled and cut into chunks
4 ribs celery, cut in half
1 leek split, tops removed
10 sprigs fresh thyme
10 sprigs fresh parsley
2 bay leaves
8-10 peppercorns
2 cloves garlic
2 gallons cold water
Load stockpot: In a 12-quart stockpot, place chicken carcasses, vegetables, herbs and spices. If you have one, set an opened steamer basket directly on ingredients to help keep them submerged. Add water.
Cooking: Cook on high heat until you begin to see bubbles break through the surface of the liquid. Turn heat down to medium-low so that the stock maintains a low, gentle simmer.
Skim: Use a spoon or fine mesh strainer every 10-15 minutes during the first hour, and every 30 minutes for the next two hours. Add hot water as needed to keep bones and vegetable covered. Simmer uncovered 6-8 hours. A temperature of 180 degrees is ideal.
Strain: Use a fine mesh strainer to place over the top of another large stockpot and pour in stock, discarding solids. Cool immediately to 40 degrees in large cooler of ice, or a sink full of ice water. Refrigerate overnight. Remove solidified fat from the surface.
Store: Store covered in refrigerator for 2-3 days or in freezer for up to 3 months. Prior to using, boil for two minutes.
Source: Adapted from Culinary Vegetable Institute, Milan.
Clear Broth
Makes 1 quart
1 egg white
1 crushed eggshell
1 shredded white onion
1 quart de-fatted meat stock, cooled
Cook’s note: Recipe easily doubled or tripled with all ingredients. Don’t use a pot with an enameled interior or it could be damaged.
Make clarifying raft: Crush together the egg white, egg shell and onion. Set aside.
Heat: Pour the cooled stock into a saucepan large enough to contain it. Whisk the egg and onion mixture into the stock. Place the pot over a low flame and let it heat gradually. The egg and onion mixture will cook and slowly rise to the surface forming a raft. Where the soup begins to heavily simmer through the raft, use a spoon to break away a small hole in the raft to create a vent. This will ensure proper convection and you will begin to notice the broth become clear as it continues to cook. Let this simmer for about 30 minutes.
Strain: Remove the pot from the flame and gently ladle the broth through cheesecloth or a filter for coffee being sure not to break or destroy the raft. Season to your liking and serve very hot. The liquid should be a clear amber color.
Store: Store covered in refrigerator for 2-3 days or in freezer for up to 3 months. Prior to using, boil for two minutes.
Source: Adapted from “The White House Cookbook of 1887.”
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