It’s hard to pin down a specific stretch of coastline as the most scenic – isn’t the whole thing beautiful? – but then again, it’s hard to argue against Boardman state park for the honor.
Officially the Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor, the 12-mile stretch of coastline runs along the southernmost part of the Oregon coast, encompassing high cliffs, stunning seastacks, beautiful beaches and secret coves.
The area – once slated to become a national park – was established in the 1950s, named in honor of Samuel H. Boardman, the “father” of Oregon’s state park system, on the eve of his retirement.
Boardman was a key figure in the development of public lands in Oregon. He “felt a great responsibility to protects scenery for future generations,” Thomas R. Cox wrote in “The Park Builders: A History of State Parks in the Pacific Northwest.” Furthermore, “[Boardman] embarked on a crusade out of a sense of personal, almost religious conviction.”
When Boardman was picked to be the state’s parks engineer in 1929 he wasted no time, starting his tenure by protecting roadside forests, then quickly turning his attention to parks. His enthusiasm on the job earned praise from his superiors, who changed his title to something more appropriate to his work: state parks superintendent.
While many in the state and national government looked at parks as places of recreation, rather than preservation, Boardman was a staunch advocate for conservation and minimal development on park lands, arguing that “strange as it may seem, the more the world civilizes the primitive, the more barbaric we become.”
The coastal park that bears his name shares his vision as well.
The 12-mile stretch passes through evergreen forests that break open for sweeping vistas, viewpoints and pull-outs, from which visitors can marvel at the thundering Pacific Ocean, dominated here by large seastacks, arches, islands and cliffs.
Go by car on Highway 101 or go by foot on the Oregon Coast Trail – just be sure to honor the visionary behind the park, and treasure the wild land of Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor.
Lone Ranch Beach in the Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor.Jamie Hale/The Oregonian
Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor Drive (map)
For this trip I toured Boardman by car. You can, however, hike through the entire 12-mile park via the Oregon Coast Trail. Check out the online trail brochure for details, or just follow the signs while you’re there.
Distance: 12 miles (driving), short hikes to viewpoints
Difficulty: Moderate hiking
Amenities: Parking; bathrooms and picnic tables at Lone Ranch, Whaleshead Beach and Arch Rock
The Boardman experience is entirely customizable. You can tour the corridor from either direction, stop at any and all viewpoints you wish and stay at each as long as you like. For my trip I came from the south, after spending sunrise at Harris Beach State Park in Brookings. I decided to stop at every pull-out I could find and hike to the viewpoints closest by the parking areas. Here’s what I found at each one:
Lone Ranch Beach: Lone Ranch is a great place to settle down, with open stretches of beach, hiking trails, picnic tables and bathrooms. Sharp seastacks seem to rise out of the surf, making the scenery as ominous as it is beautiful.
Cape Ferrelo: Offering sweeping vistas all around, Cape Ferrelo is made for walking. Park at the pull-out and take the short hike south to a viewpoint above Lone Ranch Beach, or follow the Oregon Coast Trail north to a forested trail with more viewpoints beyond.
House Rock: There are good views at the House Rock viewpoint, but the centerpiece of the stop is the monument erected in honor of Samuel H. Boardman. Soak in the scene, pay your respects and head on.
The most beautiful stretch of the southern Oregon coast
Whaleshead Viewpoint and Beach: The two-pronged stop offers a viewpoint high above massive rock formations in the ocean, and a sandy beach down below. A steep trail at the viewpoint pull-out leads down to the beach, but you’d be better off driving the half mile north to the developed access site.
Indian Sands: A confusing pull-out, Indian Sands features a large circular parking area, surrounded by tall brush that obstructs the view of the ocean. Viewpoints can be found, but they require hooking back up with the Oregon Coast Trail, found at the southeastern end of the parking are. From here, the park service recommends a 7-mile round-trip hike north to China Beach.
Thomas Creek Bridge: Located just south of the Thomas Creek Bridge, the pull-out is primarily a hub for the Oregon Coast Trail. A hand-made sign nailed to a tree offers directions to viewpoints nearby on the trail.
North Island: Another place to hook up with the Oregon Coast Trail, the North Island pull-out leads to a spectacular inlet just south of the parking area. There’s no beach access, but it’s beautiful all the same, as a grassy meadow leads to cliff side views above the ocean.
China Beach pull-out: While not an official stop in the scenic corridor, the pull-out is a good excuse to get another view in between North Island and Natural Bridges. And, unless you took the hike from Indian Sands, it’s an opportunity to get a look at lovely China Beach.
Natural Bridges/Thunder Rock Cove: These stops are technically two, but proximity makes them essentially one – and together they’re perhaps the most scenic stop in the park. Park at either area and follow the Oregon Coast Trail south to a wooden walkway above phenomenal rock arches, then north to an open point overlooking several gorgeous rock formations and Secret Beach, a dreamlike and not-so-secret sandy beach below.
Spruce Island: There’s not much to Spruce Island. The tiny pull-out offers a nice view, and is yet another way to access the Oregon Coast Trail.
Arch Rock: One of the most iconic seastacks in Boardman, Arch Rock is phenomenal, but only one of many rock formations in the area. A developed park at the pull-out offers bathrooms, benches, picnic tables and a grassy area, ringed by a paved pathway that leads to Arch Rock itself and views of the coastline around it.
–Jamie Hale | jhale@oregonian.com | @HaleJamesB
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