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The bar at the new St. Mary’s Mexican bistro Chisme is such a force of nature that it gives the place a split personality, of sorts.
The serious kitchen mentality brings us steakhouse-quality carne asada and grilled chicken as good a roadside pollos asados joint. You’d expect no less from the restaurant group behind the progressive Asian spot Hot Joy and the craft-driven pizza at Barbaro.
The bar mentality forgives the sloppy tableside spectacle of Takis and queso taffy set ablaze for “Cheese on Fire.” On a double margarita buzz, it’s easier to rationalize paying $11.50 for a pair of fried avocado tacos.
The bar at Chisme could stand on its own as a cocktail destination. Its frosty Chismosa is the love child of a margarita and a piña colada, and happy hour’s an event. From 4-6 p.m. weekdays, the chips and queso are free, and $5 will buy a spicy 32-ounce michelada or a sharp and sweet frozen margarita.
I don’t care whether it’s the kitchen or the cocktails talking, I’ll fight anybody who says Mexican cheeseburger tacos with ground beef, sliced ham and queso aren’t the best bar-food mashup since chili fries.
Chisme
2403 N. St. Mary’s St., 210-530-4236, eatchisme.com
Quick bite: A fresh, casual Mexican-influenced bar and bistro with inventive tacos, grilled chicken and beef, good happy hour deals and well-made cocktails.
Hit: Mexican cheeseburger tacos, pollos asados, happy hour
Miss: Barbacoa, undercooked tortillas, “Cheese on Fire”
Hours: 4-11 p.m. Sunday-Thursday. 4 p.m.-1 a.m. Friday-Saturday. Brunch 10 a.m.-3p.m. Saturday-Sunday.
Price range: Guacamole and queso, $5.50-$11.50; vegetable sides, $8.50-$11.50; tacos, $11.50-$13.50; salads, $14.50; campechana and aguachiles, $14.50-$15.50; entrees, $16.50-$19.50; desserts, $7; cocktails, $8-$10.
Alcohol: Wine, beer and cocktails
It’s the kind of food that suggests Chisme knows when to play and when to get serious. To find out which side wins, read the full review on our subscriber website, ExpressNews.com, or pick up the Taste section in the Sunday paper.
msutter@express-news.net
Twitter: @fedmanwalking
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