Costume designers use clothes and accessories to tell a character’s story.
That artistry is being featured at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising Museum’s annual exhibition, “Art of Motion Picture Costume Design.” It celebrates the dedication it takes to create these works, and it’s the only yearly exhibition of its kind, one the museum has been inviting visitors to for the past 25 years.
“Hollywood is make-believe, and costume design is to make you believe,” said Nick Verreos, fashion designer and FIDM alum/longtime instructor.
The exhibition, observing its silver anniversary, features more than 100 costume designs from 23 films from 2016, including the Academy Award nominees for that category. It offers a sneak peek before the upcoming Feb. 26 presentation at the Dolby Theatre in Hollywood. And if seeing the intricacies of dazzling works isn’t enough, admission to the FIDM museum exhibition is free for the presentation displayed through April 22.
Academy Award nominees for costume design that will be part of the exhibition include “Allied,” by Joanna Johnston; “Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them,” by Colleen Atwood; “Florence Foster Jenkins,” by Consolata Boyle; and “La La Land,” by Mary Zophres.
Costumes on display from Academy Award nominated films are “Fences” by Sharen Davis and “Hidden Figures” by Renee Enrlish Kalfus. And other sure-to-delight pieces include those from “Rogue One: A Star Wars Story” by David Crossman and Glyn Dillon; “Miss Peregrine’s Home for Peculiar Children” by Colleen Atwood; “The Huntsman: Winter’s War” again by Colleen Atwood; “Doctor Strange” by Alexandra Byrne; and “Suicide Squad” by Kate Hawley.
As is the tradition, the work of last year’s Academy Award-winning costume designer, Jenny Beavan, and some of pieces from the winning movie, “Mad Max: Fury Road,” are showcased at the front of the exhibition.
This year’s edition offers contrasting examples of designs from the capes and tights of “Batman vs. Superman: Dark Justice” and the grunge street wear of “Suicide Squad” to the stunning intricate gowns of “The Huntsman: Winter’s War” and “Alice Through the Looking Glass.” But a dominant theme is simply-cut sheaths, suits, tuxedos and dresses you’ll see the minute you walk into the hall.
The first display guests encounter includes the canary yellow, royal blue, bright red and emerald green frocks of “La La Land” that earned Zophres her Academy Award nomination. The dresses showcase the importance of details, which features floral dyed prints and flare from the waist, making it possible for the many dance sequences in the movie. Verreos said the designer was inspired by a green dress Judy Garland wore in “A Star Is Born” and her work is a homage to the Technicolor movie musicals of the past.
“It may seem simple, but designers have to consider how a character would think and what he or she would wear,” Verreos said.
Another example of that mind-set can be found with Kalfus, “Hidden Figures” costume designer, who poured over old NASA photos of the real women mathematicians honored in the film. She also researched back issues of Ebony magazine to determine what colors would have been worn in the South.
“We just dress, but costume designers must help tell a story,” Verreos said. “Some call them magicians because they weave who the character is into the cloth.”
All the works are displayed in the open though one rule still holds — don’t touch. The exhibition, with the help of the Costume Designers Guild, salutes the skill, dedication and talent of each designer.
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