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Editor’s note: Today, we look back at Week 7 of 365 Days of Tacos, in which food writer and restaurant critic Mike Sutter reports on a different taquería, restaurant or truck every day on our subscriber site, ExpressNews.com/Tacos . Sign up for our taco newsletter while you’re there.
Taco of the Week
A La Casa taco, Don Jose Mexican Cafe. Simplicity has its place, but there’s a time and place for complicated, too. “A La Casa” is a three-in-one collective of grilled shrimp, beef and chicken that brings out the caramelized edges of each and makes them even better with peppers and onions.
The week in tacos, Feb. 12-18
La Esquinita: The Lopez family opened La Esquinita so long ago that the son can’t remember exactly when. They make their own tortillas at this tiny 5 a.m.-2 p.m. spot that leans heavily on breakfast. Best taco: Weenies rancheras. 4705 Roosevelt Ave., 210-923-1848, no web presence
Mercado Del Pueblo: This newcomer on the San Antonio grocery scene is as well-organized and thoroughly stocked as a movie set, with its own bakery and taquería in the back. Best taco: Real trompo al pastor. 2024 Austin Highway, 210-233-9130, Facebook: Mercado Del Pueblo
Don Jose Mexican Cafe: The real players here are tacos that combine three or four of the things we like best about tacos for the price of one. Enjoy a free bowl of fideo while you wait. Best taco: A La Casa. 955 Pleasanton Road, Suite 101, 210-921-6080, no web presence
Mary Lou’s Cafe: Red neon gives this little southside bungalow the feeling of a bleary night at the bar. Or the morning after. But it also has the cure: A steaming plate of cheese enchiladas, handmade tortillas and a good crispy taco. Best taco: Crispy beef. 1002 Pleasanton Road, 210-924-0478, no web presence
Oblate Cafe: This little diner looks and feels like a set from a 1940s Technicolor film. It’s only been here 12 years, but everybody treats you like family. Best taco: Carne guisada. 904 Oblate Drive, 210-826-3363, Facebook: Oblate Cafe
Cocula Jalisco: The size of an interstate truck stop, Cocula still has the feel of a small family cafe, with friendly service, free chips, three salsas and a roster of breakfast and lunch tacos served all day. Best taco: Papas rancheras. 4849 Roosevelt Ave., 210-927-1906, no web presence
Ric-Ron Taco House: When the walls match the haggard pallor of your skin, you know you’re in the land of the 24-hour taquería. YOU try being awake 24 hours a day without looking like Tammy Faye Bakker. Best taco: Bean and cheese. 346 E. Mitchell St., 210-532-2233, no web presence
Week 6 winner: Paloma Blanca
Week 5 winner: Mendez Cafe
Week 4 winner: Tacos Y Burritos Metro Basilica 2
Week 3 winner: El Buen Gusto Mexican Cafe
Week 2 winner: Taco Haven
Week 1 winner: Ray’s Drive Inn
msutter@express-news.net
Twitter: @fedmanwalking
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